To add the toolbox door, you must first insert the two rubber buffers.
This is the correct way around. Try poking them through with a small
bladed screwdriver until there is enough visible to get hold of with
pliers. Then pull it through until it pops in to place.
Like this.
When both are fitted, the hinge should look similar to this.
Now remove the circlip from the rear of the lock barrel.
Push the outer barrel through the lock hole in the door so that the slot in the end facing is downward.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS AN ERROR. THE FLAT PLATE, WITH TWO HOLES SHOULD HAVE GONE ON THE INSIDE OF THE TOOLBOX DOOR AND NOT ON THE OUTSIDE AS SHOWN HERE. THE ONLY PART THAT SHOULD BE SEEN FROM THE FRONT, IS THE TOOLBOX LOCK HANDLE AND THE PLATE IS RIVETED TO THE INSIDE.
SORRY ABOUT THAT. I MUST HAVE DOZED OFF WHEN ATTACHING THIS ONE.
Adjust to line up the holes at the front.
You now require two soft alloy blind rivets.
Push the rivets through from the front and tape in place to hold them temporarily.
PLEASE NOTE: THE FLAT PLATE OF THE HANDLE SHOWN IN THE IMAGE BELOW SHOULD GO ON THE INSIDE OF THE TOOLBOX DOOR AND NOT ON THE OUTSIDE AS SHOWN HERE. I MADE A MISTAKE ATTACHING IT LIKE THIS. SORRY.
THE REST OF THE PROCESS HOWEVER, IS CORRECT.
To flatten the rivets, I placed my toolbox on top of a clean and flat piece of hardwood. Get somebody to hold it in the correct position and use a centre punch with a wide and flat head to pein over the rivet shank.
Re-attach the lock barrel and clasp.
Using the correct hinge pin, first make sure it will pass through the loops of the hinge on both the door and the frame.
Hold the door in alignment...
And push the pin through, you may need to use pointed pliers to hold the pin as you push. It makes the job easier. When it is right through, split the opposite end of the pin to prevent it working itself out.
Job done.
