I am removing the toolbox next because it makes things 'slightly' easier
to get at when you want to remove the petrol tank. Depending upon who
put the tank in at the factory, the tank strap bolts vary in position
slightly. Mine has the bolt on the kickstart side a little low and
therefor it is easier to get at once the toolbox is out of the way.
The toolbox is held in by three bolts. The top bolt can be seen in the image below. It is pushed through the frame of the scooter, through a hole accessible from the inside of the toolbox toward the top edge. The bolt has a rounded head with no slot or spanner head etc. It is bent in a shape that allows it to pass through the hole and down toward the clasp bracket that is welded to the top, rear of the toolbox itself.
The bolt passes through a semi-circular lug that sits within the clasp, followed by a retaining clip that folds over the nut to prevent it from vibrating loose. This clip is bent over the "NUT", once the toolbox is correctly positioned and all the 3 nuts are tightened.
Here you can see clearly the bolt at the lower kickstart side of the scooter.
The one on the other side is identical.
The top bolt in undone first. Remember to fold the retaining clip that is bent over the nut out of the way first, or you cannot get the correct size spanner on the head of the nut. This clip is also preventing the nut from turning. Simply bend it back out of the way with the blade of a screwdriver.
Once the top bolt is undone, the bolt must be pushed out through the hole in the frame to be removed.
The lower bolts are fitted through slots under the aperture inside the toolbox door. They can be undone most of the way but it is not necessary to remove the nut completely. Once they are loose enough, they can be slipped out of the clasp and then slid out of the frame slot to release them completely.
Once all three bolts are removed, the toolbox is freed from the frame and can be extracted.
The aperture of the toolbox opening has a rubber gasket seal to prevent moisture etc from getting in to the toolbox itself. It also helps to reduce rattles and vibration. This seal is not a complete ring as it first appears, but is a single length, bent to shape around the aperture. The join ALWAYS goes at the bottom.
Here are all the components that hold your toolbox in place.
The uppermost of the three bolts (see pic below) is the one which fits at the top. The other two, are the lower fasteners and note they are a slightly different shape because of how they have to be fitted and the position they need to be in.
The one on the other side is identical.
The top bolt in undone first. Remember to fold the retaining clip that is bent over the nut out of the way first, or you cannot get the correct size spanner on the head of the nut. This clip is also preventing the nut from turning. Simply bend it back out of the way with the blade of a screwdriver.
Once the top bolt is undone, the bolt must be pushed out through the hole in the frame to be removed.
The lower bolts are fitted through slots under the aperture inside the toolbox door. They can be undone most of the way but it is not necessary to remove the nut completely. Once they are loose enough, they can be slipped out of the clasp and then slid out of the frame slot to release them completely.
Once all three bolts are removed, the toolbox is freed from the frame and can be extracted.
The aperture of the toolbox opening has a rubber gasket seal to prevent moisture etc from getting in to the toolbox itself. It also helps to reduce rattles and vibration. This seal is not a complete ring as it first appears, but is a single length, bent to shape around the aperture. The join ALWAYS goes at the bottom.
Here are all the components that hold your toolbox in place.
The uppermost of the three bolts (see pic below) is the one which fits at the top. The other two, are the lower fasteners and note they are a slightly different shape because of how they have to be fitted and the position they need to be in.
